“Luke, you go first so we can make sure you do it right,’’ my brother Alexander suggested. I hopped on to the board and it flipped over a couple times until I got the hang of it. Then, while on it, we waited for the perfect wave for me. It didn't look that big until it started picking up speed. That caught all my family off guard and swoosh the waved picked me and it felt like slow motion drove me into the the sand. Salt water got in my eyes and it felt like someone poured acid in my eyes. I was washed up on the shore. For the rest of the day I laid and rested.