It was a sunny day in Florida with the waves just perfect for riding today. I was running down to the sandy beach with the water as clear as could be. I saw for some reason not many people were in the water just on the beach. I wondered if something happened, so right now I didn’t go in just to be safe. Then after about 1 minute of being out of the water. The waves started to pick up and I just needed to go in. Then the flag showed yellow (Marine Life is Present.) I still did not bother and dove in for the waves, and in an instant I was riding on top of one of the biggest waves I have ever rode. I felt like the king and could do anything I wanted to do. The board was wobbly and almost fell into the cold deep wave. Then from up behind the wave I wanted to ride the “Big One” I like to call it. I rode that wave like no other person could. The tunnel that was building up from the water pressure felt like a dream. The inside was clear and blue with the sun’s reflection shinning off of it. I thought I would make it through, but no the wave took me under the the pressure building up above me. Then the board brought me up and I still carry on the message that water can be cool but also dangerous. Since that day I have loved water even more but still wish water wasn’t so dangerous.
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