When my whole family was in Destin Florida we were at the beach. It was the day after a rainy day! When we were at the beach there were HUGE waves! They were about 4 1/2 ft tall! I was in the the ocean with my boogie board.
I love riding the waves! When I was looking back I saw a really really big wave coming toward me! It seemed like it was calling me to ride it! It was probably the biggest one all day! I got my boogie board ready to take the action! Then I looked back one more time. That second I knew I was in danger! The wave crashed right on top of me! I felt like I was going to die that very second! I under all the water with pressure on my back pushing me and pushing me deeper and deeper under the waves! I Felt like I was under the waves for a minute! When I finally got to shore from that gigantic wave I was panting like a dog and was gagging from the icky salt water that had been in my mouth for so long! I looked back and saw how far the wave had carried me! It seemed it carried me about a mile but I knew that wasn’t right.
I told Nicky that I was so scared! I said “ I thought I was going to die under there!”
He was laughing and laughing so hard! “Ha Ha, you shouldn’t have rode that wave! If I were you I would have jumped the wave! Or run all the way up to shore so the wave wouldn’t crash right on top of you!”