I waded into the bigger waves and jumped right when I was ready to catch the wave. I missed. I was body surfing with it, it’s like surfing but you just jump when you're on the wave and you go on top of the wave but not very long. I kept wading in the water until it was up to my neck. Then a pretty big wave came and I was so low that if I missed I might have choked on water. I jumped and hit the wave. I was on top of it for a split second and then I was touching the ground. I got a little water in my mouth which luckily wasn't salt.
“Yes!” I said in kind of a hushed voice but not a whisper. I moved into the shore so I did get taken by the waves. It was a clear day with a few clouds and I stopped and a pile of sand that was high enough to make the water only to my hip. It smelled like water if it smelled but there was no salt. I heard the constant wave that hit the beach that made me feel good. I was in Michigan. All I felt was the constant crash of the waves and the splash of water. I decided to keep moving up and jump another wave. I jumped as a wave came crashing in. I missed but another was coming. I calculated the timing and jumped right on time. Then a small one followed which wasn't a challenge at all. Plus it was so small it didn't do much picking up. I kept going forward until I until there was a monster wave. I was a neck deep so I had to make this. I timed and a jumped. To late. The wave pulled me under water and the following waves kept me under for what seemed like a minute. I swam up but once I got up I couldn't find the ground. I must have gone pretty deep to not touch the bottom. I raced back to where I could actually touch the ground. I kept going and reached the little hill I found. I went back to the shore for a break.